Bodegas Luis Cañas Rioja Gran Reserva 2018

Tasting impeccably right now, the 2018 Rioja Gran Reserva has 5% Graciano giving a lift to the Tempranillo, fermented together in large oak vessels and concrete, and then aged two years in French oak only, both new and used. There’s tremendous life to this wine, shimmery layers of lush red fruit, oak spice, dried herb, and so much tension and length. The tannins are fine, and there’s a verticality to the full-bodied expression of the fruit. A long, persistent finish finds complement in plenty of acidity. Age 20 years or more.

Something of a more traditional style from the Luis Cañas team, this is a cuvée of Tempranillo and 5% Graciano from the Carralciego vineyard in Villabuena de Álava. Combining French and 30% American oak ageing, it's firm, mature and appealingly balsamic, with nice backbone and tobacco leaf, plum and redcurrant flavours. 2025-34.