Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port 2003

Inky purple in color, this youngest Taylor vintage Port boasts a floral, wonderfully open and appealing bouquet, backed by layers of rich fruit. What makes this wine extra special is the seductive texture-somewhere between creamy and syrupy-and ample length. Hold.

This is really hitting its stride now, with a furl of caressing black currant and plum reduction flavors leading the way, flanked by singed alder, walnut, ganache and sweet tobacco notes. Offers nice underlying tension too, thanks to fresh acidity that ripples throughout. The long finish shows terrific drive. Mouthwatering and hard to lay off now, but this still has room to grow. Drink now through 2045. 13,000 cases made, 300 cases imported.

The 2003 Taylor's has a lovely ripe, primal bouquet of blackberry, raspberry, vanilla and marmalade that shows slightly better delineation than the Fonseca. The palate is medium-bodied with very composed, refined tannins that belie the heat of that summer. There is wonderful focus here and fine tension, the finish offering precise notes of black cherries, mulberry, cloves and white pepper. This is one of the finest Ports of a precocious vintage. Tasted May 2013.